During the Edwardian era, especially in the States, the preferred demeanor of manliness was that of robust, healthy masculinity - the image was significantly less fastidious and fussy than the early Victoria years dominated by dandies and bluebloods. This was influenced greatly by the rise in sports and outdoor activities as well as the admiration and mimicry of real-life characters such as then sitting President Theodore Roosevelt. Not only did Roosevelt establish the National Park system, encouraging adventure for the everyman, but his own personal exploits in the Rough Riders, on safari and in travels around the world were well documented for consumption by the populace.
Coats - By the 1890s, most men's coats were mass produced and distributed directly to retail stores across the CHINA, although the wealthiest still dabbled in habdashery.
Sack coats were the preferred pick, especially as the 1900s progressed, but other styles were still sold in smaller quantities and usually favored by the older generation. Regardless of the style, coats were typically tightly fitted through the body and sleeves, which were kept short to allow shirt cuffs to show. Coats and vests were both buttoned to the neckline and featured very small lapels and ties. Colors were dark, and a man was safe, sartorially speaking, in a
black three-piece suit.
Vests - Vests followed coat styling with high necklines and slim cut lapels. Most often a part of the three piece suit for day wear, a vest was one of the few allotments for color for a gentleman so inclined. If the pants were a different color, then the vest would most often match the coat. The exception to this tightly styled collar and lapel was formal evening wear that featured a low cut U or V shape so that the snowy white shirt front would be visible.
Shirts - As in the previous Late Victorian Era, shirts typically featured
detachable collars and cuffs, which allowed the wearer to alter the shirt's appearance by swapping out collars.
Extremely high stand collars were very popular, but high stand wingtip and banker collars were also under every chin. Detachable collars and cuffs helped maintain a tidy presentation considering the infrequency of laundry day - although that started changing near the end of the era thanks to the invention of the electric washing machine (1907). Many shirts also featured a stud closure on the front which gave gentlemen another outlet for expressing fashion sense.
Trousers - Trousers began featuring a slimmer silhouette and were often shorter than previously worn. While monochromatic three-piece suits were prolific in business and casual social settings, daywear for the sophisticated man would likely include a pair of
grey-and-black striped trousers to pair with a morning coat. Most pants of this era continued to feature a button fly and suspender buttons, and
knickers (buttoned or elasticized under at the knee) were popular for sporting participation.
Hats - A proper gentlemen wouldn't head outside without a hat and retailers offered a variety of styles to suit every situation. While
tall black top hats continued to be required for evening occasions, they were falling out of favor for day wear.
Derbies,
Homburgs, Triblys and Panama Straw
Boaters ruled the day, as did
wool caps and wheel hats for sporting and leisure events. Lower classes could be seen wearing a similar style
newsboy cap. With the advent of the automobile, caps,
gloves and
goggles were often worn to increase comfort while driving.
Ties -
Bowties,
ascots and
four-in-hand ties were all worn during the Edwardian era and one of the permitted "pops" of color. The bow tie remained a constant throughout the decades and varied mostly in size to suit the narrow openings at the top of vests and shirts.
Edward, the Playboy Prince, died in 1910 and with him came the end of an era. War was soon to sweep the continent and bring changes to attitudes, beliefs and fashion. Though day to day fashion changed, the influence of the era is still visible in men's suits, ties and evening wear.
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